Split leather is created from the lower layer of an animal hide, known as the corium, after it has been split away from the top-grain layer.
Table of Contents
- Understanding Split Leather: More Than Just a Label
- How Is Split Leather Made? The Splitting Process Explained
- What Are the Different Types of Split Leather?
- Split Leather vs. Other Leather Grades: A Comparative Look
- What Are the Characteristics of Split Leather?
- Common Uses for Split Leather Products
- How to Identify and Care for Split Leather
Understanding Split Leather: More Than Just a Label
When shopping for leather goods, you encounter many terms: full-grain, top-grain, and genuine leather. Among these, split leather is a common material used in a wide array of products. It originates from the fibrous part of the animal hide left over after the top layer is separated for higher-grade leathers like top-grain and full-grain. This lower section is called the corium.
Because the corium layer doesn’t have the natural surface grain and dense fiber structure of the top layers, it is less durable and has a rougher, fleshier texture. To make it usable, tanneries often process it further. This can involve embossing it with an artificial grain pattern, applying a polymer coating, or buffing it to create a soft, napped finish like suede. The result is a material that looks like leather but possesses different characteristics in terms of strength, breathability, and aging.
How Is Split Leather Made? The Splitting Process Explained
The creation of split leather is a fascinating part of the tanning process. It all begins with a thick animal hide, which is often too substantial for use in a single piece for products like handbags or upholstery. To maximize the yield from a single hide, it is run through a specialized machine called a leather splitting machine.
From Hide to Layers: A Step-by-Step Breakdown
The process starts after the initial stages of tanning, where the hair has been removed and the hide is preserved. A large belt knife or band knife horizontally slices the hide into two or more layers. This is a precision process where the thickness of each layer is carefully controlled. The goal is to separate the more desirable outer layer from the inner, more fibrous layers.
The topmost layer, containing the original outer surface of the animal’s skin, becomes either full-grain or top-grain leather. The layers beneath this initial cut are what we call split leather or split-grain leather. Depending on the original thickness of the hide, it can sometimes be split into multiple layers, though each successive layer becomes weaker and less fibrous.
The Top Grain vs. The Split: A Tale of Two Layers
The fundamental difference between the top cut and the split lies in the fiber structure. The top layer (epidermis and grain) has densely packed, vertically oriented fibers, which provide immense strength, durability, and moisture resistance. This is where the natural markings and pores of the animal are visible, giving it a unique character that develops a rich patina over time.
In contrast, the split (corium layer) has a looser, more horizontal fiber structure. It lacks the natural grain and protective outer surface. On its own, it has a fuzzy, suede-like texture on both sides and is much more porous and susceptible to stretching and damage. This is why it almost always requires artificial surface treatment to be functional and aesthetically pleasing for most consumer goods.
What Are the Different Types of Split Leather?
Once the hide is split, the resulting material can be finished in several ways, leading to distinct types of leather with different applications and appearances. The treatment applied to the split’s surface defines its final category.
Suede: The Velvety Classic
Suede is perhaps the most well-known type of split leather. It is created by sanding or buffing the inner side of the split to raise a soft, napped texture. Because it has no protective outer layer, suede is very soft and pliable but also highly absorbent and prone to staining. It is prized for its luxurious feel and is commonly used for items that don’t face heavy wear and tear, such as shoe uppers, jackets, and decorative linings in bags.
Bicast Leather: The Coated Contender
Bicast (or bycast) leather is made by taking a lower-quality split, laminating a sheet of polyurethane (PU) onto the surface, and then embossing it with a leather-like texture. This process gives the material a consistent, glossy finish that is easy to clean and water-resistant. However, it sacrifices the breathability and natural feel of real leather. Bicast leather does not develop a patina and can be prone to cracking or peeling over time as the polyurethane layer wears away from the fibrous base.
Finished Split (PU Coated): Creating a Uniform Surface
Similar to bicast, a finished split is a split that has been coated with a polymer-based finish and embossed to mimic the look of top-grain leather. This coating helps to seal the porous surface, adding a degree of durability and water resistance. This type of leather is often used for furniture, budget-friendly footwear, and accessories where a uniform appearance and low cost are more important than the natural qualities of premium leather.
Split Leather vs. Other Leather Grades: A Comparative Look
Understanding where split leather stands in the hierarchy of leather grades is crucial for making an informed purchase. The quality, durability, and price of a leather product are directly tied to the layer of the hide from which it was made.
| Feature | Full-Grain Leather | Top-Grain Leather | Split Leather |
|---|---|---|---|
| Source Layer | Outermost layer, including the full natural grain | Outermost layer, with the very top surface sanded off | Inner layer (corium), underneath the top-grain |
| Durability | Highest | High | Low to Moderate |
| Breathability | Excellent | Good | Poor (especially if coated) |
| Aging | Develops a rich patina | Develops a minor patina | Does not develop a patina; can crack or peel |
| Feel | Natural, robust | Softer, more uniform | Stiff (if coated) or very soft (suede) |
| Cost | Most Expensive | Expensive | Least Expensive |
Split Leather vs. Full-Grain Leather
Full-grain leather is the highest quality grade available. It uses the entire top layer of the hide without any sanding or correction, retaining all the natural markings, scars, and tightest fibers. This makes it incredibly strong and durable. Over time, it absorbs oils and develops a beautiful patina. Split leather is the opposite; it’s the weaker under-layer that lacks the natural grain and strength of full-grain.
Split Leather vs. Top-Grain Leather
Top-grain leather is the second-highest grade. It’s similar to full-grain but has had its very top surface lightly sanded and buffed to remove imperfections. This makes it more uniform in appearance and slightly less durable than full-grain, but still a very high-quality material. Split leather comes from the layer directly beneath the one used for top-grain, making it significantly less robust.
Is “Genuine Leather” the Same as Split Leather?
The term “genuine leather” can be misleading. While it sounds premium, it is often used to describe a lower grade of leather. In many cases, genuine leather is simply split leather that has been heavily processed and given an artificial surface coating and texture. It is real leather in that it comes from an animal hide, but it does not possess the quality or durability of top-grain or full-grain leather. It’s a marketing term that often indicates a product is on the lower end of the quality spectrum.
Understanding these differences is key to choosing a product that lasts a lifetime. At Beldtura Leather, we believe in the unparalleled beauty and strength of superior materials. That is why our handcrafted collections are exclusively made from the finest full-grain leather, ensuring every wallet, bag, and accessory develops a unique character and stands the test of time.
What Are the Characteristics of Split Leather?
Split leather has a unique set of properties that make it suitable for certain applications but less ideal for others. Its primary characteristics are dictated by its loose fiber structure and the finishing process it undergoes.
Advantages: Affordability and Versatility
The main advantage of split leather is its cost-effectiveness. Because it is a byproduct of producing higher-grade leathers, it is much more affordable. This allows manufacturers to offer products with a leather-like appearance at a lower price point. Additionally, its surface can be manipulated in many ways—dyed in vibrant colors, embossed with exotic patterns (like crocodile or snake), or turned into soft suede—making it a highly versatile material for fashion and design.
Disadvantages: Durability and Breathability Concerns
The primary drawback of split leather is its lack of durability. The loose, horizontal fibers make it prone to stretching, tearing, and scuffing. It does not hold its shape as well as top-grain leather. When coated with polyurethane, as in bicast or finished splits, the material loses its natural breathability. This can make items like shoes or furniture feel hot and clammy. The synthetic coating is also susceptible to cracking and peeling over time, especially at points of frequent flexion.
Common Uses for Split Leather Products
Due to its affordability and versatility, split leather is used in a vast range of consumer goods where the extreme durability of full-grain leather is not a primary requirement. You can commonly find it in:
- Fashion Accessories: Belts, wallets, and handbags in the lower-to-mid price range.
- Footwear: Casual shoes, boots, and especially sneakers, where suede is a popular choice for uppers.
- Furniture Upholstery: Often used on the sides and backs of sofas and chairs, with higher-grade leather on the seating surfaces.
- Apparel: Suede jackets, vests, and gloves.
- Linings: The soft texture of suede makes it an excellent lining material for high-end bags, boxes, and cases.
- Work Gloves: The fibrous texture of unfinished split leather provides a good grip, making it suitable for durable work gloves.
How to Identify and Care for Split Leather
Knowing how to spot split leather and care for it properly can help you manage your expectations and extend the life of your products. Here are a few tips to guide you.
Spotting Split Leather: Telltale Signs
Identifying split leather, especially when it’s coated, can be tricky. Look for these clues:
- The Price: If a product seems unusually inexpensive for being “real leather,” it is likely made from a split.
- The Surface: Coated split leather often has a very uniform, plastic-like feel and a repeating grain pattern. It lacks the natural imperfections found in full-grain leather.
- The Edge: If you can see a cross-section of the material, it may appear fibrous and fuzzy, sometimes with a clear top layer that looks like it’s been applied.
- The Feel: It often feels stiffer and less supple than top-grain leather and does not have the rich, oily feel of high-quality full-grain.
Maintenance and Cleaning Tips for Longevity
Proper care depends on the type of split leather. For suede, use a suede brush to restore the nap and a specialized suede eraser for minor stains. Keep it away from water, as it stains easily. Protect it with a suede-specific waterproofing spray.
For coated or finished splits, care is much simpler. Wipe the surface with a damp cloth to remove dust and dirt. Avoid harsh chemical cleaners or solvents, as they can damage the polyurethane coating. Unlike higher-grade leathers, these materials do not need conditioning because the plastic coating prevents moisturizers from penetrating the fibers. Be mindful that once the coating cracks or peels, it is very difficult to repair.
